Day Two:

Stuck indoors in Gyeongju now. It's really raining out there. Still in the same hostel as last night - Han Jin Jang. This is an odd place. I've been told that it has been operating for more than three decades, and accordingly, it's got a lot of character. These days, though, it doesn't seem to enjoy much traffic.

The hostel is contained within a two story building, with about 15 rooms for let. There's no dorm beds, but for a few bucks less, travellers can get a room with shared facilities. The rooms are kind of shabby, and the building is furnished mostly with the detritus of it's thirteen years.

All that junk gives the joint some character, of course. I ran into a Polish travellers (a student in a Seoul-based business program) who said to me "you can feel t7he history here... and it's so interesting that no matter where we go, these backpacking places are all the same... same beds... same toast with jam in the morning..."

Like I said, this place has been going for thirty years. The pictures all over the walls suggest that its heyday was sometime in the mid-80s. There are photos everywhere, but the most recent I can find is from 1997. There are many photos from the 80s showing of the owner of the place (Kwon Young Joung) performing yogic feats, but these days he seems to shuffle around rather slowly.

I understand that the hostel was heavily promoted in some old Lonely Planet editions; an excerpt posted on the wall behind me says:

"This is one of the friendliest hostels I've ever come across in my travels and, from the letters which we receive, many travellers agree... the rooms are spotlessly clean, the hotel well maintained... I can't recommend this place enough and travellers from all over the world who have stayed here keep in touch with Mr. Kwon."

Meanwhile, my current book says:

"People don't stay here for the rooms; many are rather grotty. However, the kitchen, courtyard, meeting room and roof deck are great places to commune and plan forays with fellow travellers" (186).

Anyhow, the common areas feel a little bit haunted by the past guests. The current guests, like the owner, tend to shuffle quietly through the hallways.

That said... this IS a thirty year old backpacking joint! I think that age affords it some sort of "legendary" status, and staying here allows me to check off a box on my vagabonding checklist.

Over and out.

April 16, 9:30 pm, same as above.